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How to Undress an Eighteenth Century Lady by Kathryne Kennedy
Hello Tammie and her wonderful readers! Thank you so much for having me as a guest here on your blog today. I put together a simple cheat-sheet for writers about eighteenth century clothing, and I thought it might not only be a good guide for writers researching the era, but also a bit of fun for your readers who love history (although you may want to note the changes I made because of the fantasy aspect of my world). So without further ado, here’s how my hero, Dominic Raikes, might go about undressing my heroine, Lady Cassandra Bridges, from my upcoming release The Fire Lords’ Lover:
1. Gown: First, Dominic might wish to remove Cassandra’s gown, and this can consist of:
A mantua, which is a formal dress worn at court, and is similar to a huge robe wrapped in front, held together with a girdle (belt). A decorated stomacher (more about this below) will often show through the opening of the top.
A sacque dress, which is unfitted both front and back (not drawn in at the waist) and the back has pleated material that falls from the shoulders all the way to the floor. Again, a stomacher will show through the open-to-the-waist neckline.
The skirt bottom of either of the above dresses can be opened or closed, which means it can be split to show a different or matching colored petticoat beneath. The petticoat will be as elaborate as the skirt itself in material and construction.
A day dress, consisting of a bodice (top) and skirt. This was considered ‘undress’ wear by the wealthy, and adopted by the workingwoman for practical reasons. The dress had elbow length sleeves, a fitted shape for the bodice, and depending on the lady, could be made of several types of material. Linsey-woolsey as the cheapest, progressing to satin, silk or velvet for the most expensive. The jacket bodice was usually held in place with lacing or hook-and-eye closure down the front. The skirt, like the petticoat, was tied on by a drawstring, either behind or a tie at each side, and was closed (no split).
The riding habit was also two pieces: a skirt, worn with a coat similar to a man’s but darted along the sides, with a buttoned waistcoat beneath. Also to simulate the man’s dress, a cravat could be worn around the neck and a tricorne hat on the head. Although hoops were often worn under the skirt, I use a quilted petticoat to keep mounting and riding simple.
2. Stays: Now Dominic may wish to tackle her stays, which is a boned support wrap that is tightly laced in the back, which flattens the bosom and pushes it upward. Often tied to the front of the stays is the stomacher, another boned piece of cloth with a ‘v’ at the bottom, which can be heavily embroidered and decorated for show. The stomacher is also often attached to the bodice itself, instead of the stays, usually sewn in place. Cassandra finds it simpler to wear a stomacher that is attached to the stays. There is also evidence that workingwomen wore stays that released by ties in the front as well, which makes sense to me, as they didn’t have maids to unlace their backs, which were tied in a sort of criss-cross fashion, which took determination to remove. Another interesting note about stays is that they weren’t what we consider underwear. They were often worn without any covering while women worked, and often peeked through the open front of a gown, especially if they were elaborately embroidered or decorated. As the centuries progressed, and stays became known as the corset, they then became primarily underclothing. Because of consistency throughout the ages, I don’t use this fact in my books, and stick with the chemise as our modern idea of historical underclothing.
3. Petticoat: Then Dominic must untie the hoop-petticoat, via a drawstring about the waist. A hoop was a petticoat reinforced with (usually) whalebone, in circular layers from top to bottom, which held out a lady’s skirt. Several types of hoops were worn during the Georgian era, but in general, they started out in a round dome shape, then graduated to a ‘fan’, where the front and back of the top of the hoop was flattened, pushing out the hoops to the sides. The oblong hoop extended the distance to the sides, creating the extravagant shape worn by Marie Antoinette. These were also called ‘elbow hoops’, since some were high enough that a lady could actually rest her elbows on them. In lieu of hoops, usually for workingwomen, a lady could wear a quilted petticoat to help shape her dress. A fancy (unboned) petticoat could be worn over the supporting hoop-petticoat, specifically when the lady wore an open skirt. Other types of support were also worn, like false hips and cork rumps, but this is for the writer, not the historian, and I try to keep it simple. (Also, the skirt of a dress was commonly referred to as a petticoat, but this can be confusing to the modern reader (and me!), so I stick with the separate terms.)
4. Chemise: Finally, Dominic can remove her chemise, a thin shift which reached to about the knees. A rich woman’s chemise could be made of fine linen, elaborately embroidered or laced, especially about the sleeves, where it often peeked out from under the gown’s sleeves. The neckline was sometimes loosened by a string that gathered it closed.
5. Shoes: If she hasn’t already, Lady Cassandra can kick off her shoes at this point, which resemble our modern-day clogs, where you slip your foot in. Often made of material to match her skirts, they had heels and were usually buckled or tied over the toes. She could also wear slippers, and a workingwoman might wear thick leather ones. Boots were often worn for riding.
6. Stockings: Stockings were usually white or black, held up at the top by a ribbon (garter) tied just above the knees. Usually cotton, the middle class might wear worsted, a rich lady would wear silk. In The Fire Lord’s Lover, Dominic enjoys removing Cassandra’s stockings very slowly.
7. Drawers: I can find no evidence that a Georgian lady wore any form of what we consider panties. Which is fabulous news for Dominic Raikes, who can skip all the above and just lift her skirts when passion overwhelms him.
8. Miscellaneous: Lady Cassandra might also carry/wear:
A tucker (scarf) could be tucked into the top of the bodice of any dress for modesty’s sake.
Hair was usually worn in a bun at the top in the back of the head, curls or waves of hair to frame the face. Ladies began to wear white wigs like the gentlemen, which later in the century grew to extreme heights, and were often decorated with feathers, jewels, birds, tiny hats, etc., especially for formal occasions or at court. In The Fire Lord’s Lover the men wear wigs to imitate the elven lords’ lustrous long white hair, and use silver glitter to try to copy the sparkle. Since Dominic has the original, he does not wear a wig, but will often wear battle braids at the sides. Lady Cassandra will sometimes powder her hair, however, to imitate the locks of an elven lady, with a dash of silver glitter to match the lustrous sheen of The Elven Lords.
Mobcaps were worn on the head indoors, a cap gathered in the front with ruffles at the sides, and often under hats, which varied from imitations of the men’s three cornered hat to straw hats. Pinners were worn as formal dress, caps usually made of lace, flat on the top of the head, with trailing ‘lappets’ down the sides (of the same material) that hung well past the shoulders.
Cassandra may also carry/wear a drawstring purse, lace handkerchief, fan, muff, parasol, apron, umbrella and gloves (gloves were almost always worn). Aprons were not always used for practical purposes, but as an accessory to the dress, of sheer material embroidered or edged with lace.
For outerwear, she could wear a mantle, which is a long hooded cloak, often with a riding hood attached, a ‘caped hood’. A mantlet, which is a short cape. A scarf, wrapped around the shoulders. Again, the cloth varied based on wealth, but most were made of wool. Trim could be excessive, from fur to embroidery to gold piping.
This is a basic cheat-sheet for writers, and I kept simplicity in mind when putting this together. I used several references, but the primary ones are: Costume in Context/The Eighteenth Century by Jennifer Ruby ISBN 071345772, A History of Fashion in Costume/The Eighteenth Century by Anne Rooney 0816059489, Daily Life in Eighteenth Century England by Kirstin Olsen 0313299331, Handbook of English Costume in the 18th Century by C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington 0823801284.
I hope you enjoyed this description of how my hero might go about undressing my heroine from The Fire Lord’s Lover. I hope writers may find this a helpful resource, and readers will have fun with it. Let me know what you think—I look forward to reading any comments!
All My Magical Best,
Kathryne
Kathryne Kennedy's historical fantasy romances have garnered awards and a growing readership. This exciting new series, set against the lavish backdrops of Georgian and Victorian England so beloved by romance readers, is deliciously dark and exciting.
Fighting for control of a kingdom that is split into seven domains, Elven warlords use their human slaves to breed an endless supply of soldiers for their armies. Dominic Raikes, the half-blood son of the Elven Lord himself is one such warrior. Betrothed to Lady Cassandra, who has been raised in a convent to keep her pure, he little suspects that she's been secretly trained as an assassin to murder his father. Dominic and Cassandra soon discover that each one is not what they seem, but the price of trust may be their very lives, and the destruction of the magical realm each is desperately trying to save…
To Purchase The Fire Lord’s Lover:
Amazon
Barnes and Noble
Borders
BooksAMillion
Chapters/Indigo
Kathryne’s Bookseller Directory
1. Gown: First, Dominic might wish to remove Cassandra’s gown, and this can consist of:
A mantua, which is a formal dress worn at court, and is similar to a huge robe wrapped in front, held together with a girdle (belt). A decorated stomacher (more about this below) will often show through the opening of the top.
A sacque dress, which is unfitted both front and back (not drawn in at the waist) and the back has pleated material that falls from the shoulders all the way to the floor. Again, a stomacher will show through the open-to-the-waist neckline.
The skirt bottom of either of the above dresses can be opened or closed, which means it can be split to show a different or matching colored petticoat beneath. The petticoat will be as elaborate as the skirt itself in material and construction.
A day dress, consisting of a bodice (top) and skirt. This was considered ‘undress’ wear by the wealthy, and adopted by the workingwoman for practical reasons. The dress had elbow length sleeves, a fitted shape for the bodice, and depending on the lady, could be made of several types of material. Linsey-woolsey as the cheapest, progressing to satin, silk or velvet for the most expensive. The jacket bodice was usually held in place with lacing or hook-and-eye closure down the front. The skirt, like the petticoat, was tied on by a drawstring, either behind or a tie at each side, and was closed (no split).
The riding habit was also two pieces: a skirt, worn with a coat similar to a man’s but darted along the sides, with a buttoned waistcoat beneath. Also to simulate the man’s dress, a cravat could be worn around the neck and a tricorne hat on the head. Although hoops were often worn under the skirt, I use a quilted petticoat to keep mounting and riding simple.
2. Stays: Now Dominic may wish to tackle her stays, which is a boned support wrap that is tightly laced in the back, which flattens the bosom and pushes it upward. Often tied to the front of the stays is the stomacher, another boned piece of cloth with a ‘v’ at the bottom, which can be heavily embroidered and decorated for show. The stomacher is also often attached to the bodice itself, instead of the stays, usually sewn in place. Cassandra finds it simpler to wear a stomacher that is attached to the stays. There is also evidence that workingwomen wore stays that released by ties in the front as well, which makes sense to me, as they didn’t have maids to unlace their backs, which were tied in a sort of criss-cross fashion, which took determination to remove. Another interesting note about stays is that they weren’t what we consider underwear. They were often worn without any covering while women worked, and often peeked through the open front of a gown, especially if they were elaborately embroidered or decorated. As the centuries progressed, and stays became known as the corset, they then became primarily underclothing. Because of consistency throughout the ages, I don’t use this fact in my books, and stick with the chemise as our modern idea of historical underclothing.
3. Petticoat: Then Dominic must untie the hoop-petticoat, via a drawstring about the waist. A hoop was a petticoat reinforced with (usually) whalebone, in circular layers from top to bottom, which held out a lady’s skirt. Several types of hoops were worn during the Georgian era, but in general, they started out in a round dome shape, then graduated to a ‘fan’, where the front and back of the top of the hoop was flattened, pushing out the hoops to the sides. The oblong hoop extended the distance to the sides, creating the extravagant shape worn by Marie Antoinette. These were also called ‘elbow hoops’, since some were high enough that a lady could actually rest her elbows on them. In lieu of hoops, usually for workingwomen, a lady could wear a quilted petticoat to help shape her dress. A fancy (unboned) petticoat could be worn over the supporting hoop-petticoat, specifically when the lady wore an open skirt. Other types of support were also worn, like false hips and cork rumps, but this is for the writer, not the historian, and I try to keep it simple. (Also, the skirt of a dress was commonly referred to as a petticoat, but this can be confusing to the modern reader (and me!), so I stick with the separate terms.)
4. Chemise: Finally, Dominic can remove her chemise, a thin shift which reached to about the knees. A rich woman’s chemise could be made of fine linen, elaborately embroidered or laced, especially about the sleeves, where it often peeked out from under the gown’s sleeves. The neckline was sometimes loosened by a string that gathered it closed.
5. Shoes: If she hasn’t already, Lady Cassandra can kick off her shoes at this point, which resemble our modern-day clogs, where you slip your foot in. Often made of material to match her skirts, they had heels and were usually buckled or tied over the toes. She could also wear slippers, and a workingwoman might wear thick leather ones. Boots were often worn for riding.
6. Stockings: Stockings were usually white or black, held up at the top by a ribbon (garter) tied just above the knees. Usually cotton, the middle class might wear worsted, a rich lady would wear silk. In The Fire Lord’s Lover, Dominic enjoys removing Cassandra’s stockings very slowly.
7. Drawers: I can find no evidence that a Georgian lady wore any form of what we consider panties. Which is fabulous news for Dominic Raikes, who can skip all the above and just lift her skirts when passion overwhelms him.
8. Miscellaneous: Lady Cassandra might also carry/wear:
A tucker (scarf) could be tucked into the top of the bodice of any dress for modesty’s sake.
Hair was usually worn in a bun at the top in the back of the head, curls or waves of hair to frame the face. Ladies began to wear white wigs like the gentlemen, which later in the century grew to extreme heights, and were often decorated with feathers, jewels, birds, tiny hats, etc., especially for formal occasions or at court. In The Fire Lord’s Lover the men wear wigs to imitate the elven lords’ lustrous long white hair, and use silver glitter to try to copy the sparkle. Since Dominic has the original, he does not wear a wig, but will often wear battle braids at the sides. Lady Cassandra will sometimes powder her hair, however, to imitate the locks of an elven lady, with a dash of silver glitter to match the lustrous sheen of The Elven Lords.
Mobcaps were worn on the head indoors, a cap gathered in the front with ruffles at the sides, and often under hats, which varied from imitations of the men’s three cornered hat to straw hats. Pinners were worn as formal dress, caps usually made of lace, flat on the top of the head, with trailing ‘lappets’ down the sides (of the same material) that hung well past the shoulders.
Cassandra may also carry/wear a drawstring purse, lace handkerchief, fan, muff, parasol, apron, umbrella and gloves (gloves were almost always worn). Aprons were not always used for practical purposes, but as an accessory to the dress, of sheer material embroidered or edged with lace.
For outerwear, she could wear a mantle, which is a long hooded cloak, often with a riding hood attached, a ‘caped hood’. A mantlet, which is a short cape. A scarf, wrapped around the shoulders. Again, the cloth varied based on wealth, but most were made of wool. Trim could be excessive, from fur to embroidery to gold piping.
This is a basic cheat-sheet for writers, and I kept simplicity in mind when putting this together. I used several references, but the primary ones are: Costume in Context/The Eighteenth Century by Jennifer Ruby ISBN 071345772, A History of Fashion in Costume/The Eighteenth Century by Anne Rooney 0816059489, Daily Life in Eighteenth Century England by Kirstin Olsen 0313299331, Handbook of English Costume in the 18th Century by C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington 0823801284.
I hope you enjoyed this description of how my hero might go about undressing my heroine from The Fire Lord’s Lover. I hope writers may find this a helpful resource, and readers will have fun with it. Let me know what you think—I look forward to reading any comments!
All My Magical Best,
Kathryne
THE FIRE LORD’S LOVER BY KATHRYNE KENNEDY—IN STORES JULY 2010
Fighting for control of a kingdom that is split into seven domains, Elven warlords use their human slaves to breed an endless supply of soldiers for their armies. Dominic Raikes, the half-blood son of the Elven Lord himself is one such warrior. Betrothed to Lady Cassandra, who has been raised in a convent to keep her pure, he little suspects that she's been secretly trained as an assassin to murder his father. Dominic and Cassandra soon discover that each one is not what they seem, but the price of trust may be their very lives, and the destruction of the magical realm each is desperately trying to save…
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Kathryne Kennedy is a multipublished, award-winning author of magical romances. She’s lived in Guam, Okinawa, and several states in the U.S., and currently lives in Arizona with her wonderful family—which includes two very tiny Chihuahuas. She welcomes readers to visit her website where she has ongoing contests at: www.KathryneKennedy.com. To Purchase The Fire Lord’s Lover:
Amazon
Barnes and Noble
Borders
BooksAMillion
Chapters/Indigo
Kathryne’s Bookseller Directory
Check out the Night Owl Reviews digital magazine. It comes out monthly on the 15th and has exclusive content and interviews.
22 Response to How to Undress an Eighteenth Century Lady by Kathryne Kennedy
Wow, it's a wonder anyone ever followed through with a seduction, it took a lot of work to get the lady undressed, LOL.
Barbed1951
WOW LOOK AT ALL THAT HAIR! GAH, WITH ALL OF THOSE CLOTHES TO WEAR IT'S A WONDER THAT ANYONE GOT PREGNANT! THANK GOODNESS I WAS BORN LATER! LOL
Yes, I was thinking it sure took a lot of work and energy to get farther than first base in those days. Those were real men who persisted!
Morgan Mandel
http://morganmandel.blogspot.com
LOL, Ladies! You are so right, it did take a lot of persistence for a man to get a woman fully undressed. But keep in mind that ladies did not wear drawers at this time...so it often was a simple matter of flipping up some skirts. :}
Loved reading your comments, Barbara E, hotcha12, & Morgan Mandel (I'm on your NING network!). Thanks so much for stopping by and leaving a comment!
That was alot of stuff to have to deal with everyday... my oh my... thanks for sharing!!!
greenshamrock@
This information was very interesting, but I can't imagine having to go through all of that to get dressed. And the poor fellow who has to do the undressing. He would have to be very determined. LOL These outfits are very beautiful to look at, but not all that practical. Can you imagine what those females would think of a bikini?
GladysMP
That takes a lot of time...and perseverance. But then, Dominic is probably determined to unclothe Cassandra until she's...well, you know.
Thanks for the description of the numerous clothing apparel that Lady Cassandra could had worn during that time. It's nice to know the article of clothing so that one can imagine what it looks like while one is reading the book.
aylah001@
Thank you for that wonderful description, I have always been a little confused about the layers. I guess I should stop complaining about having to wear a top and shorts during the summer...it could be far worse!
Sounds exhausting! LOL ;-) Intriguing post!
First part of email: missyprissy
this post was very interesting and informative but I have 2 words. Hell no!!!
lorettaC
lbcanton@verizon.net
Hi Kathryne,
Wow, not only must it have been frustrating to seduce and be seduced it makes sense they wore no undies. :)
I can't wait to read The Fir Lord's Lover.
Carol >
Lucky 4750@aol.com
ooops--sorry, should have said Fire. :)
Carol L.
Lucky4750@aol.com
I have read nothing by Kathryne Kennedy but this book does sound good!
kalynnick AT yahoo DOT com
Gracious. I can't imagine wearing so much & the hair! Can you picture trying to dress yourself in all that? I find the no panties funny though...
Ivy
ivydtruitt@yahoo.com
That was interesting. I think it would have be fun to dress like that, but doing it everyday would have gotten old. I loved learning about all of that. It will help when reading historical. Thanks! chirth7@yahoo.com
I enjoyed reading this post. I could NOT survive wearing all those clothes! No wonder women had the vapors and fainting spells. LOL
Thanks,
Tracey D
booklover0226@
i love to read and would ove to have your book and rrad it and blog on it
What a handy resource. When I get home, I am going to print it out and keep it handy. I have one of you books from your last series on my TBR bookcase. This new series sounds most interesting. I look forward to reading it. A touch of magic adds so much to a story.
librarypat@
Oh my, with all those bits and pieces of clothing how did a woman move about? I've always thought it unfair that women wear so much more than men as to clothing. How absolutely worse it was back then! Thanks, Kathryne. BTW, I still receive many comments about the garnet pendant/necklace I won in one of your contests!
Pat Cochran
p-cochran@
Thats a lot of clothes, I'm glad I didn't live back then. I have to admit, I've never understood the outfits pushing the breasts up until they looked mashed and hanging over the top of the dress. I really don't think it was all that attractive. I guess it's a good thing I wasn't born back then.
seriousreader@
Thank you everyone, for the interesting comments. I’m stopping in a last time to respond to each of you:
My pleasure, Colleen!
Hi GladysMP! They would faint from the scandal of being so scantily clad, I'm sure. :}
Hi erahime! I'm so glad it will add to your reading pleasure.
Hi E.L.F. (wks)! It was very cold in England, so I'm sure the layers were practical, but they sure carried it to the extreme.
Thanks so very much, Chelsea B.!
LOL, Loretta C!
That’s so great to hear, Carol L.! Thx so much!
So very glad to hear it from you as well, tkalynnick!
Hi Ivy! Actually, as a writer, the no-panties were a relief. Less complicated love scenes. ;}
Hi Christine H! So glad you enjoyed the post!
Hi Tracey D! So glad you enjoyed it as well!
Hi desitheblonde! Wonderful to hear! Best wishes!
Hi librarypat! So glad you can use it as a resource! Thank you for the kind words.
Hi Pat Cochran! How great to hear from one of my contest winners! So good to know you enjoyed the prize.
Hi Linda Henderson! I’m very glad I wasn’t born back then as well. But the costumes do make for some delicious fantasy. :}
Wow what a lot of closes - But they were so pretty compared to today's mode of dress. I would happily wear more to look like that.
Our two lucky winners are: gladysmp29 & seriousreader
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